Whether it’s their romantic aura, their subtle beauty or simplistic style, you have decided it’s time to add a beautiful piece of pearl jewelry to your collection. Before running out to your favorite jeweler and snatching up the first thing you see, get informed about the investment you are about to make. Just like any other gemstone, there are quite a few things to know about pearls that can help you not only get the best deal, but the right pearl for you.
First, let me start by saying that there is no official grading system industry wide for pearls. There are however, 2 different systems that reputable pearl dealers hold themselves to. The first system is the AAA-A system, which allows jewelers to grade pearls. In this system, a grade of AAA means the pearl is of the highest quality. The pearl should be nearly flawless and have a very high luster. If the pearl has a grade of AA, it should still have a high luster but could have a defect here or there. The grade of A is the lowest quality pearl. This type of pearl will most likely have a lot of flaws and be lacking luster.
The second system widely accepted by pearl dealers is the A-D system, sometimes known as the Tahitian system. This is the system often used to grade Tahitian or South Sea pearls in overseas markets. In this system, a grade of A means the pearl is of the highest quality with high luster and is virtually flawless. The grading goes down from there, with a B pearl having a high to medium luster and a few defects. A pearl with a grade of C will most likely have a medium luster with defects possibly over 50% off the surface. A pearl graded below a D rating is not usable for jewelry.
Because these two grading systems are not industry-wide, it is important that you feel as though you can trust your jeweler. Make sure you ask for the pearl grading in writing - any reputable dealer should readily provide this. This way, you have the pearl quality in words as opposed to simply the grade they felt was appropriate. The other thing to look for when grading a pearl is its nacre, or surface thickness. The thicker the nacre, the more durable the pearl will be over time. A good, thick nacre begins at about 0.5mm so keep this in mind and use it as a guide when choosing pearls.
It's important to examine the pearl's surface carefully before you purchase. A high-quality pearl should have a bright and shiny appearance. You should be able to see your reflection in a high-quality pearl. Lower quality pearls have milky or chalky characteristics. Also, check the surface of the pearl to make sure it is smooth and free of discoloration or other defects. The perfect pearl is round, smooth, and shiny.
The next thing to consider is the pearl's color. This is an area where personal taste should overtake how valuable the pearl is. Certain colors are rarer than others that occur in nature, but this should not be a determining factor. You should consider your personal taste and what compliments your skin tone when purchasing your pearls. With that being said, pearls range in color from white to black with every color in-between. It shoudl be easy for you to find a high-quality pearl in the perfect color to suit your taste.
Another thing to be aware of when shopping for pearls is size and how that affects cost. Of course, the larger the pearl the more expensive it will be, depending on the other factors as well. Pearls are measured in millimeters and will depend on the type of pearl. Akoya pearls are often the smallest and can range from approximately 6mm to 8mm. Tahitian, South Sea, and fresh water pearls run larger than Akoya pearls. The average pearl sold today is about 7mm. There are also pearls called “seed pearls” which are tiny, often less than 1mm that can be found in jewelry stores around the world.
So, before heading out to the stores do some research and be informed about the type of pearl you want to bring home with you. The more knowledgeable consumer you are, the more pearl you will be able to get for your money. In the end, you will feel better about your purchase, will most likely have made a better investment and will choose a piece of jewelry that you will love for years to come.
